How Dose Sponge Spicule Work

Four core action mechanisms of sponge spicules: from microchannel opening to enhanced collagen synthesis.

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Skin Layers

Before diving into how spicule work affects skincare results, let’s briefly review the basic structure of the skin.

Epidermis – The visible outer layer, approximately 0.1–0.2 mm thick. It is further divided into five sublayers (from surface to base):

  • Stratum corneum: The outermost layer of dead cells, providing barrier protection.
  • Stratum granulosum: Where cells begin to keratinize.
  • Stratum spinosum: The thickest layer of the epidermis, with spiny projections between cells that help transmit nutrients and signals.
  • Stratum basale: The deepest layer of the epidermis, where new cells are generated and melanocytes reside.
  • Dermis – Located beneath the epidermis, rich in collagen, elastin fibers, and capillaries. It provides skin elasticity and support.

Hydrolyzed sponge spicules primarily act on the epidermis. Depending on their length, they can reach the stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, or stratum basale – without entering the dermis. This is key to their safe, non-invasive, yet effective action.

Spicule Length Ranges & Target Layers

Sponge spicules (also called hydrolyzed sponge or sponge spicule powder) typically range from 80 to 320 microns. Different lengths target different skin layers and produce varying levels of sensation and results.

The basic rule: shorter spicules are gentler, longer spicules penetrate deeper and deliver stronger effects. Based on practical application, we can divide spicule length into three main ranges:

1. 80–120 µm – Gentle

  • Target layer: Stratum corneum → Stratum granulosum

  • Sensation: Mild, almost painless

  • Key benefits:

    • Gentle removal of dead skin cells

    • Improves roughness and dullness

    • Enhances absorption of basic skincare ingredients

  • Best for: Daily cleansers, mild exfoliating lotions, sensitive-skin peeling masks

  • Skin types: Sensitive, dry, first-time users

2. 180–220 µm – Moderate

  • Target layer: Stratum spinosum

  • Sensation: Noticeable prickling/tingling, but tolerable

  • Key benefits:

    • Deeply unclogs pores, reduces blackheads and comedones

    • Promotes cell turnover, improves fine lines

    • Boosts penetration of active ingredients (e.g., niacinamide, peptides)

  • Best for: Oil-control serums, pore-clearing masks, moderate-strength exfoliation products

  • Skin types: Oily, combination, acne-prone

3. 270–320 µm – Intense

  • Target layer: Stratum basale (deepest epidermal layer)

  • Sensation: Strong, noticeable stinging – professional guidance recommended

  • Key benefits:

    • Potently stimulates collagen and elastin production

    • Significantly reduces acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and deep wrinkles

    • Enhances firmness and promotes deep skin regeneration

  • Best for: Professional-grade anti-aging serums, scar treatment patches, clinical treatment products

  • Skin types: Resilient skin, those with deep scarring or advanced aging concerns (use under professional supervision)

Summary Comparison Table

Length Range Target Layer Sensation Key Benefits Best Product Types
80–120 μm Stratum granulosum Gentle Exfoliation, brightening Daily cleansers, mild peels
180–220 μm Stratum spinosum Moderate Oil control, acne, penetration Acne serums, moderate peels
280–330 μm Stratum basale Intense Anti-aging, scar repair Professional anti-aging, clinical treatments

Physical Channels + Penetration Enhancement

When sponge spicules are applied to the skin, gentle massage creates microchannels in the stratum corneum, significantly improving the transdermal absorption efficiency of active ingredients. Compared with conventional topical application, the penetration of active ingredients is greatly enhanced (Kim TG, 2022, PMID 35034416).

  • What occurs when sponge spicule touches your skin?
  • Spicules pierce stratum corneum to create fine physical microchannels
  • Microchannels stay open up to 72 hours and close gradually
  • Active ingredients (ampoules, serums) penetrate through microchannels
  • Active ingredients reach the basal layer to nourish deep skin cells

16,000/cm²

The formation of physical microcanals

120h

Microchannel maintenance for 120 hours

73.4%

Absorption rate in the dermis 1

Promote cell self-repair and regeneration

Physical micro-stimulation generated by sponge spicules follows the same physical principle as microneedling (Percutaneous Collagen Induction, PCI) and fractional laser, triggering the skin’s natural wound-healing response.

Phase 1: Formation of Microchannels

When sponge spicules are applied to the skin, physical microchannels are formed within the stratum corneum. Studies have observed approximately 16,000 microchannels per cm² with an average depth of 48.6 μm, which gradually heal and close within 120 hours (5 days).

Phase 2: Initiation of Skin Self-Repair

In response to the controlled physical micro-stimulation from hydrolyzed sponge, the skin activates its innate wound-healing response, recruiting immune cells and releasing growth factors.

Phase 3: Increased Collagen Synthesis

Growth factors released during the skin’s wound-healing response stimulate fibroblast proliferation and prompt the skin to synthesize new collagen and elastin. This increase in collagen has been confirmed in microneedling studies with human biopsies.

Phase 4: Natural Shedding of Spicules

Sponge spicules are chemically stable and are not absorbed by the skin. Spicules remaining only on the skin surface shed along with the natural turnover of the stratum corneum.

FAQ

What is sponge spicule (hydrolyzed sponge)?

Sponge  spicules (INCI: Hydrolyzed Sponge) are the skeletal structures of sponges, primarily composed of silicon dioxide (SiO₂·nH₂O) in the form of microscopic needle-like structures. They are a siliceous extract obtained from freshwater sponges. With a diameter of tens of micrometers, these micro-needle structures form physical microchannels when applied to the skin, enhancing the penetration of active ingredient.

Spicules continue to work deep within the skin for up to 72 hours post-treatment

Yes, while spicule treatments are generally well-tolerated, risks include:
  • Transient irritation: Mild redness or prickling that usually subsides quickly.
  • Barrier disruption: Overuse or high spicule concentration can compromise the skin barrier, leading to moisture loss or inflammation.

  • Not ideal for sensitive or compromised skin: Those with rosacea, acne-prone skin, or weakened barriers should exercise caution or seek professional advice.

It’s used for sure trouble skin such as acne, folliculitis, light wrinkles, only skin etc.

1) In salon and skin clinic, hydrolyzed sponge are used for peeling treatment, compared with other similar efficacy of application, hydrolyzed sponge only give skin pure rational stimulation, never hurt the dermis and never cause bleeding, never produce any side effects.

2) As a single and key ingredient to add into peeling cosmetics such as massage cream, provide functions of peeling. skin imitation and pores enlargement.

A: We do not recommend it. Mixing sizes can lead to uneven exfoliation and unpredictable skin response. Choose one target length based on your primary goal.

Not necessarily. Longer spicules provide deeper action but may cause more sensation. For daily-use products, 100–200 µm is often sufficient. For intensive treatments, 300 µm is preferred.

Always conduct a patch test on human volunteers. Start with lower dosage and increase gradually. The sensation should be a mild “prickly” feeling, not sharp pain or burning.

Yes. We provide 10g samples of 100µm, 200µm, and 300µm.   Request samples now

References

  1. Kim TG, Lee Y, Kim MS, Lim J. (2022). A novel dermal delivery system using natural spicules for cosmetics and therapeutics. J Cosmet Dermatol, 21(10), 4754–4764. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14771.
  2. El-Domyati M, Barakat M, Awad S, et al. (2015). Microneedling therapy for atrophic acne scars: an objective evaluation. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 8(7). PMID: 26203319.
  3. Aust MC, Reimers K, Repenning C, et al. (2011). Percutaneous collagen induction: scarless skin rejuvenation — fact or fiction?. J Plast Reconstr Aesthet Surg, 64(1). PMID: 20413357.
  4. Schmitt L, Marquardt Y, Amann P, et al. (2018). Comprehensive molecular characterization of microneedling therapy in a human three-dimensional skin model. PLoS One, 13(9). PMID: 30235356.
  5. Fernandes D. (2005). Minimally invasive percutaneous collagen induction. Oral Maxillofac Surg Clin North Am, 17(1). PMID: 18088764.
  6. Manstein D, Herron GS, Sink RK, et al. (2004). Fractional photothermolysis: a new concept for cutaneous remodeling using microscopic patterns of thermal injury. Lasers Surg Med, 34(5). PMID: 15216537.
  7. Drozdov AL, Zemnukhova LA, Panasenko AE, et al. (2021). Silicon Compounds in Sponges. Applied Sciences, 11(14), 6587. DOI: 10.3390/app11146587.
  8. Udompataikul M, Wongniraspai T. (2012). The study on effects and safety of Spongilla lacustris in 3% hydrogen peroxide solution on rat skin. J Med Assoc Thai, 95(Suppl 12), S15–S20. PMID: 23513460.
  9. Waghule T, et al. (2019). Microneedles: A smart approach and increasing potential for transdermal drug delivery system. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 109, 1249–1258.
  10. 1Prausnitz MR, Langer R. (2008). Transdermal drug delivery. Nature Biotechnology, 26(11), 1261–1268.
  11. Zhang C, Zhang K, Zhang J, et al. (2019). Skin delivery of hyaluronic acid by the combined use of sponge spicules and flexible liposomes. Biomaterials Science, 7(7), 2821–2831. PMID: 30821312.
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